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Preserving food

Though we are still getting 32ºC at midday here in Aranjuez, the fact that we are down to just 16ºC at night shows that summer is on the way out.

It’s also harvest time for lots of fruit and vegetables. Courtesy of some friends who have a small farm in Toledo, we get sizeable amounts of tomatoes, apples, peaches and peppers. The big problem is what to do with them.

I’ve made tons of peach jam (or perhaps I should call it “preserve”). Ignoring the recipe books, I don’t bother skinning them: just chop into chunks, leave overnight with half their weight in sugar, add a lemon (halved) and boil until the syrup is thick. It doesn’t “set” (apparently the main concern when making jam in my native Ireland). I immediately bottle in preserving jars, sterilise in the pressure cooker and they’re ready for the winter. I’ve also got some blackcurrant jam from the bush in the garden (imported from Ireland), which yielded a whole kilo this year, and we are planning to go blackberrying in the local area this month (more jam!).

The tomatoes are of the “beefsteak” variety. The traditional method of storing tomato here in Spain is to chop and bottle, then cook in a water bath. The tomato’s natural acidity keeps the nasties away. In fact, before preserving jars became available, the standard recipient was a glass (e.g. wine) bottle, which required the whole family to sit around cramming tomato chunks into narrow-necked bottles using a funnel and a small stick. However, hardly anyone does this any more. It’s too much like hard work and you can buy tomatoes all year round in the shop (not to mention ketchup, canned tomatoes and something called “tomate frito”, which is the lazy man’s tomato sauce). Though I originally thought we would have to preserve some tomatoes, we’ve found that we can get through them in salads and by making pasta sauce.

Fresh tomato sauce
Gently fry chopped onion and garlic until very soft, i.e. at least 30 minutes, then roughly grate 2-3 soft tomatoes, add salt and sugar to taste, plus any herbs you fancy, e.g. bay leaf, oregano, and simmer until sauce is thick. If you can use good Italian pasta, all the better.

As for apples, I’ve made apple jelly (Irish recipe), which is something I’ve never seen in Spain, flavouring one batch with allspice and another with ginger. But there’s a limit to the amount of jams, jellies, etc.

Apple jelly
The original Irish recipe is for crab apples, but you can use windfalls, or damaged apples picked up cheap at the market. Roughly chop your apples, removing any damaged parts (and insects), but don’t discard the peel or cores. Put in a pot that is large enough and add just enough water to cover (or maybe a little less). Boil until the apples have been reduced to a pulp. Pour the whole lot into a pillowcase and hang over a large bowl to catch the juice. This is best left overnight. The standard warning is not to squeeze the bag as that will give you cloudy jelly.
If you’re not ready to make the jelly immediately, you can keep it in the fridge for a few days. When the time comes, measure out the juice and add the requisite amount of sugar (one pound per pint, or one kilo per litre, roughly). Add the juice of one lemon per litre and any flavouring you want (e.g. allspice berries). Boil until you can see it thickening (there is also the classic test of pouring a spoonful onto a cold plate to see if it gels). Bottle.

So I’ve been thinking about drying. We should have no trouble sun-drying vegetables in this climate, which is both hot and dry. An internet search turns up some interesting ideas from the US, such as this list from Buildit Solar and this article from GeoPathfinder*

I can’t say I’ll be making anything like that, but I certainly thinking on those lines.

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Recipe: Apple Rolls

This recipe is adapted from “Apple Dumpling Slices” in the King Arthur Baker’s Companion That’s a great book, incidentally, with recipes for practically everything. The original recipe requires you to make your own pastry. This is the “lazy man’s” version (i.e. with “shop-bought” pastry).

The final result

This recipe is for apples, but you can use practically any fruit that you can use in a pie, cobbler, etc. (that is to say, peaches, cherries, nectarines, or a mixture).

Total preparation time is 15-20 minutes. Total cooking time is 40 minutes.

This dessert is a winner every time; it is great alone but it goes really well with vanilla ice cream.

What you will need:

4 large apples (or the equivalent of another fruit or fruit mixture)
2 sheets of puff pastry (or plain pastry). It’s handy if they are rectangular, but round is fine. (The rolls I’m using weigh 250 grams each, i.e. half a kilo of pastry – that’s about 1 lb if you’re using Imperial measures).
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
300 grams sugar (that’s 1.5 cups in American parlance)
750 ml water (3 American cups)
Butter or margarine to grease the dish

Four apples, two rolls of pastry, one oven dish

  1. Put the oven on to preheat at 175-180ºC (350º Fahrenheit)
  2. Core, peel and dice your apples. (Peaches, nectarines, etc.: don’t bother peeling — just stone and dice).
    Core, peel and dice apples
  3. Put the diced fruit in a bowl and add one teaspoon of ground cinnamon. Mix well. (NB: no sugar at this point).
  4. Put the butter/margarine in the oven dish and put it in the oven for a few minutes to melt (don’t let it burn).
  5. Put the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer until the sugar has fully dissolved and take the pan off the heat.
  6. Roll out one sheet of pastry and cut it in half.
  7. Spread a row of the fruit cubes along the centre line of a piece of pastry.
  8. Fold over to make a filled roll.
    Assembling the rolls
  9. Cut into segments about 3 cm. wide.
    Slices ready
  10. Arrange the slices in the greased oven dish. Repeat steps 7, 8 and 9 until you’re done.
    Arranging the slices in the oven dish
  11. Pour the sugar syrup over the whole concoction. Yes — ALL the syrup.
  12. Put the dish in the oven (CAREFUL: the hot syrup will slosh around).
  13. It should be done in 35-40 minutes. The base of the pan will be full of delicious thick syrup with the flavour of the fruit.
  14. You can serve hot or cold. Don’t count on there being any leftovers (I’ve never seen any).

The final result

A note about the cookbook: it’s BIG (620 pages). There are not many illustrations but the recipes are very easy to follow and have clearly been field-tested. The paper is thick and absorbent, so it will survive the odd splash of batter, syrup, etc. (i.e. it’s made to be used, not just looked at).

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